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	<title>Comments on: Gearing up for first brew of the season</title>
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	<link>http://www.bamfbeer.com/2007/04/03/gearing-up-for-first-brew-of-the-season/</link>
	<description>Sophisticated Swill, Generously Applied™</description>
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		<title>By: kenny</title>
		<link>http://www.bamfbeer.com/2007/04/03/gearing-up-for-first-brew-of-the-season/comment-page-1/#comment-814</link>
		<dc:creator>kenny</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Aug 2007 10:37:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bamfbeer.com/2007/04/03/gearing-up-for-first-brew-of-the-season/#comment-814</guid>
		<description>I love your site, you mentioned about bottling verses kegs, well for my 2 cents worth I went to the 5 gal soda kegs a while back and love it. It kinda happened by accident. I had a friend that worked for a beer distributor and I went thru him to supply me with a couple kegs for a hog roast I was having. Well after the party I went to return the CO2 tanks regulators and kegs, well he had found another job and told me just to keep the stuff. Later I happened to be at my local brew supply store and was looking at the kegging equiptment and saw how easy it would be to change the quick connect to the soda keg systen and buy a couple kegs, and I was there.....pretty simple and strait farword. I even use the beer cooler , which was a block of cast aluminum with two lines in and out as my wort chiller. Right now its gravity fed and takes 25 minutes to cool 5 gals. of wort, but if I could rig a pump up I bet I could cut that time in half.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I love your site, you mentioned about bottling verses kegs, well for my 2 cents worth I went to the 5 gal soda kegs a while back and love it. It kinda happened by accident. I had a friend that worked for a beer distributor and I went thru him to supply me with a couple kegs for a hog roast I was having. Well after the party I went to return the CO2 tanks regulators and kegs, well he had found another job and told me just to keep the stuff. Later I happened to be at my local brew supply store and was looking at the kegging equiptment and saw how easy it would be to change the quick connect to the soda keg systen and buy a couple kegs, and I was there&#8230;..pretty simple and strait farword. I even use the beer cooler , which was a block of cast aluminum with two lines in and out as my wort chiller. Right now its gravity fed and takes 25 minutes to cool 5 gals. of wort, but if I could rig a pump up I bet I could cut that time in half.</p>
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		<title>By: jonesy</title>
		<link>http://www.bamfbeer.com/2007/04/03/gearing-up-for-first-brew-of-the-season/comment-page-1/#comment-810</link>
		<dc:creator>jonesy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Apr 2007 18:48:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bamfbeer.com/2007/04/03/gearing-up-for-first-brew-of-the-season/#comment-810</guid>
		<description>Thanks a bunch, danno,

If you&#039;re basically replacing parts on a keg every other time you use it anyway, then I might as well just buy it used, so there&#039;s one bit out of the way!

As for the chore boy - yeah, that&#039;s *exactly* my plan. In fact, the chore boys are already stacked up on a shelf in the brewery. We had the problem you describe, though, with the wasted wort, and that is not just a PITA - it&#039;s just absolutely unacceptable to me (I guess I&#039;m just anal retentive that way). I need to find some solution for it. Maybe I&#039;ll start by just getting the tube down really low and seeing what I can do. I wonder if anyone has done anything to try to isolate the break material using some form of barrier and then pulling the wort from all around the barrier. Kinda like putting a circular wall at the bottom of the boiler, about 2&quot; high, and then using a plain old slotted copper, circular false bottom around it or something.

The QD&#039;s are going to help so much. A couple of years ago I could *never* find ones that were rated for 212F. I only ordered a male and female 3/8&quot; pair, because at those prices I can&#039;t afford to just order and pray that they fit. I bought a valve once that said &quot;3/8&quot; on it, and it *didn&#039;t* fit, so now I&#039;m all paranoid about it :-)

Thanks a lot for posting!
brian.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks a bunch, danno,</p>
<p>If you&#8217;re basically replacing parts on a keg every other time you use it anyway, then I might as well just buy it used, so there&#8217;s one bit out of the way!</p>
<p>As for the chore boy &#8211; yeah, that&#8217;s *exactly* my plan. In fact, the chore boys are already stacked up on a shelf in the brewery. We had the problem you describe, though, with the wasted wort, and that is not just a PITA &#8211; it&#8217;s just absolutely unacceptable to me (I guess I&#8217;m just anal retentive that way). I need to find some solution for it. Maybe I&#8217;ll start by just getting the tube down really low and seeing what I can do. I wonder if anyone has done anything to try to isolate the break material using some form of barrier and then pulling the wort from all around the barrier. Kinda like putting a circular wall at the bottom of the boiler, about 2&#8243; high, and then using a plain old slotted copper, circular false bottom around it or something.</p>
<p>The QD&#8217;s are going to help so much. A couple of years ago I could *never* find ones that were rated for 212F. I only ordered a male and female 3/8&#8243; pair, because at those prices I can&#8217;t afford to just order and pray that they fit. I bought a valve once that said &#8220;3/8&#8243; on it, and it *didn&#8217;t* fit, so now I&#8217;m all paranoid about it <img src='http://www.bamfbeer.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>Thanks a lot for posting!<br />
brian.</p>
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		<title>By: danno</title>
		<link>http://www.bamfbeer.com/2007/04/03/gearing-up-for-first-brew-of-the-season/comment-page-1/#comment-809</link>
		<dc:creator>danno</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Apr 2007 17:15:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.bamfbeer.com/2007/04/03/gearing-up-for-first-brew-of-the-season/#comment-809</guid>
		<description>yeah, you&#039;ve got a couple of questions in there. let me see what I can help you with.   first, polysulfone QD&#039;s are an essential piece of my rig. one thing you&#039;ll want to remember to do always, is wet an end before you connect them, or you may tear that fairly small o-ring.  I have a two tier system with three converted kegs and a pump, and can do everything with three 6ft hoses, two of three have female ends on both ends, the last only one end. (since the female ends are more expensive than the males, this seemed a reasonable way to go...)

my pickup in my boil kettle is close to what you describe, it&#039;s a copper &quot;L&quot; shape that sits about 3/8&quot; off the bottom of the keg, and I use a copper &quot;chore boy&quot; scrubber for a filter. I take a SS screw clamp and shove a few of the wires from the scrubby to attach it to the 1/2&quot; copper pipe.  however, I still have issues with a fair amount of wasted wort, a gallon or so, since pumping it through a pile of hops (I usually only use whole hops) the wort doesn&#039;t strain through fast enough to keep my pump from sucking air.  this may be less of an issue if you&#039;re gravity feeding, but it is somewhat of a PITA.

I have two digital temp controllers (the Ranco one, get it at Grainger unwired for about $60 new), I use them to control my chest freezers in my garage. I keep them at 42ºF year round (I use a small heater in the Minnesota winters), it works great.  absolutely no reason you couldn&#039;t keep it any temp you want. one issue that arises though, most temp controllers can be used for both heating and cooling, but there&#039;s no middle ground, it will switch back and forth from one to the other. so, I just pick a time in the fall and the spring to switch between heating and cooling. I&#039;m pretty sure that Johson Controls and Ranco make a dual stage thermostats (so you could have a 5 degree region where neither heating nor cooling happens) but these are more than twice as expensive as the single stage thermostats.

I&#039;d skip moving to copper tubing instead of plastic, simply because it&#039;s more crap you have to take apart when it&#039;s time to clean.  but, I love having a pump, since it lets me have everything on two tiers instead of some 9 foot tall gravity fed monster. the idea of 14 gallons of 180º water above my head doesn&#039;t make me very comfortable...

kegging is&#039;t that tough, and reconditioning used kegs is pretty easy. basically, you&#039;ll need to replace all the small o-rings on the posts and the dip tubes, and a good PBW soak will take care of everything else. I buy o-rings from McMaster-Carr by the hundreds, and basically swap them out every other time I disassemble my kegs, which is every time I fill them up.

hope this helps, and good luck! if you have any followup questions, hit me up at the realbeer.com forum...

danno (St. Paul, MN)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>yeah, you&#8217;ve got a couple of questions in there. let me see what I can help you with.   first, polysulfone QD&#8217;s are an essential piece of my rig. one thing you&#8217;ll want to remember to do always, is wet an end before you connect them, or you may tear that fairly small o-ring.  I have a two tier system with three converted kegs and a pump, and can do everything with three 6ft hoses, two of three have female ends on both ends, the last only one end. (since the female ends are more expensive than the males, this seemed a reasonable way to go&#8230;)</p>
<p>my pickup in my boil kettle is close to what you describe, it&#8217;s a copper &#8220;L&#8221; shape that sits about 3/8&#8243; off the bottom of the keg, and I use a copper &#8220;chore boy&#8221; scrubber for a filter. I take a SS screw clamp and shove a few of the wires from the scrubby to attach it to the 1/2&#8243; copper pipe.  however, I still have issues with a fair amount of wasted wort, a gallon or so, since pumping it through a pile of hops (I usually only use whole hops) the wort doesn&#8217;t strain through fast enough to keep my pump from sucking air.  this may be less of an issue if you&#8217;re gravity feeding, but it is somewhat of a PITA.</p>
<p>I have two digital temp controllers (the Ranco one, get it at Grainger unwired for about $60 new), I use them to control my chest freezers in my garage. I keep them at 42ºF year round (I use a small heater in the Minnesota winters), it works great.  absolutely no reason you couldn&#8217;t keep it any temp you want. one issue that arises though, most temp controllers can be used for both heating and cooling, but there&#8217;s no middle ground, it will switch back and forth from one to the other. so, I just pick a time in the fall and the spring to switch between heating and cooling. I&#8217;m pretty sure that Johson Controls and Ranco make a dual stage thermostats (so you could have a 5 degree region where neither heating nor cooling happens) but these are more than twice as expensive as the single stage thermostats.</p>
<p>I&#8217;d skip moving to copper tubing instead of plastic, simply because it&#8217;s more crap you have to take apart when it&#8217;s time to clean.  but, I love having a pump, since it lets me have everything on two tiers instead of some 9 foot tall gravity fed monster. the idea of 14 gallons of 180º water above my head doesn&#8217;t make me very comfortable&#8230;</p>
<p>kegging is&#8217;t that tough, and reconditioning used kegs is pretty easy. basically, you&#8217;ll need to replace all the small o-rings on the posts and the dip tubes, and a good PBW soak will take care of everything else. I buy o-rings from McMaster-Carr by the hundreds, and basically swap them out every other time I disassemble my kegs, which is every time I fill them up.</p>
<p>hope this helps, and good luck! if you have any followup questions, hit me up at the realbeer.com forum&#8230;</p>
<p>danno (St. Paul, MN)</p>
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